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Manzanita's Neahkahnie Overlooks an Oregon Coast Masterpiece

Manzanita's Neahkahnie Overlooks an Oregon Coast Masterpiece

Published 07/21/2011

(Manzanita, Oregon) – For perhaps millions of years, Neahkahnie Mountain has loomed over these beaches like some gigantic watchful guardian. For the last few millennia that local tribes roamed the area, it was known as a spiritual spot – and even these days some locals swear it has that quality.

Its history is also filled with talk of a treasure buried somewhere, left by the crew of a Spanish Galleon that apparently wrecked here in the 1700’s, with all sorts of dark incarnations of that tale. Then there are the rocks with mysterious markings left on them, mostly likely tied to navigational etchings from Sir Francis Drake, leaving considerable evidence he, or someone from that time period, explored this area.

Now, however, Neahkahnie Mountain is a place full of awe and ahhhh’s, an overlook of consistent wowing qualities and mind-blowing natural beauty.

It seems nearly halfway up this 1600-foot mountain, but it’s probably only a mere 500 feet above the ocean. Yes, the overlooks above Manzanita are probably among the highest viewpoints on the Oregon coast, and certainly among the most inviting and generous with its parking spots.

An enormous, nearly 180-degree view can be had here, with quite the line of sight to the south. On clearer days, you can see Oceanside’s Three Arch Rocks from these spots – about 40 miles to the south.

To the north, it’s mostly ocean and then a rustic headland covered with trees, blocking your view to places like Arch Cape. Still, it’s an awe-inspiring favorite for sunset watchers and those who simply like that feeling of their jaw dropping to stunning views of Manzanita or the Nehalem Bay.

A highlight on Neahkahnie is the fact there are several viewing spots, not just the main one with all the parking space. Three smaller ones line this winding stretch of road, all surrounded by those charming, atmospheric rock walls that are just a tad reminiscent of an European castle.

Look down from the main access onto the boulder-covered stretch hugging the mountain’s base and you’ll notice a pointed rock poking up from the trees and brush: this apparently looks like a young woman from below.

Unicyclists Ride Ojai Trails at Ojai Valley News Blog

The original title was “Kamikaze Unicyclists Conquer Ojai Trails,” but after spending almost two days with Paavo Stubstad, Seth Horton and trials professional Ty Smith, both on the Pratt Trail and on a makeshift trials course at the Pratt Trailhead, it became clear that there might be a little conquering going on, but certainly not by any sort of kamikaze.

Nor are Stubstad, Horton and Smith the painted, juggling circus clowns of old, riding their one-wheeled pedestals of torture over downhill terrain that would make even pack mules nervous, but skilled athletes playing a most unusual sport, fully aware of the risks and their own limitations.

This is controlled chaos where, it turns out, the trail usually wins.

“On a scale of one to 10, Pratt Trail is almost a 10 for municyclists,” says the 22-year-old Horton, a lifelong Ojai resident. “Horn Canyon is a 10.” Behind Thacher School on the East End, Horn boasts a steep, rocky section made more difficult by a half-buried metal pipe running down the middle.

Municyclists ride “munis,” mountain bike-style unicycles with fat, knobby tires, beefy, rugged components, a more comfortable seat and sometimes even brakes. A good one can set you back about $400.

It was on Pratt while mountain biking in 2006 that I first encountered pairs of armor-plated unicycle riders, and like most first-time, slack-jawed spectators I probably blurted out in awe one of the standard cliches. “’Hey, you’re missing a wheel’ is one of the jokes I’ve heard about a thousand times,” says Stubstad.

A video editor for a Ventura company, the 25-year-old Stubstad is considered by his peers one of the best unicyclists riding the trails today.  Goateed, helmeted and wearing plaid knee-length shorts and a CamelBak, along with a pair of black shin guards and gloves, Stubstad says he discovered the sport by accident when a friend went on vacation and loaned him his unicycle.  The challenge at first was staying on. “It was a steep learning curve,” he says.

“On a unicycle, you have to keep pedaling or you fall over,” says Horton, “there’s no freewheel, which takes some getting used to. Then balance becomes second nature and the unicycle becomes an extension of your body.”

It could only be a combination of balance, instinct and perhaps painful experience that keeps these riders bouncing down the trail over roots and rock ledges, staying as upright as possible glued to a chair on top of a wheel.

North American Tunneling 2002, proceedings of the North American Tunneling Conference 2002 : 18-22 May 2002, Seattle, Washington, USA

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